Day 76 started with an unexpected morning disruption. A local man's hedge trimmer shattered the dawn's silence, his casual smile doing little to soften the intrusive noise. "Not a nice way to wake up," I muttered, but the day demanded movement.
The landscape transformed rapidly. Warm moments dissolved into sudden meteorological drama - mist building, clouds gathering, temperatures plummeting five degrees in heartbeats. On a secluded beach, I paused to assess the shifting conditions. Here, a local woman approached, her eyes sparkling with wonder, what are you doing here and how far have you been on adventure? so i told my storry.
Cold rain became my companion as I pushed forward, initially targeting 50 kilometers. But something whispered - keep going. The weather forecast suggested caution, but my instincts screamed defiance. By midnight, I had covered 74 kilometers, the landscape a blur of determination and raw wilderness.
Day 77 began with a sunrise, but with a thunderous welcome. At 4:30 in the morning, after an extraordinary 100-kilometer kayak journey that stretched from the previous day, I finally set foot on solid ground. The moment my feet touched land, as if scripted by some divine storyteller, the first lightning strike illuminated the sky - a dramatic punctuation mark to an extraordinary journey. It was a moment of pure, raw synchronicity - nature's own welcome, a celestial acknowledgment of the miles conquered and the spirit that drove me forward.
The thunderstorm wasn't just a weather event; it was a celestial celebration. Around 4,500 lightning strikes danced within a hundred-kilometer radius, with 13,000 more visible on the broader horizon. My hammock became an observation deck to this magnificent chaos.
Thor's hammer seemed to strike everywhere. Lightning so close it rang in my ears, electricity crackling through the atmosphere. I powered down electronics, moved metal objects away, and watched in wonder. The storm felt personal - as if the elements were acknowledging my recent 100-kilometer milestone.
After the meteorological symphony, exhaustion and hunger took over. I slept and ate voraciously - consuming enough to make a whale seem restrained. My body demanded replenishment after pushing beyond its known limits.
I desided to kayak a little longer, A strategic 22-kilometer paddle positioned me near a much-needed supply store. Mosquitoes hummed their persistent welcome, my net providing a thin barrier between me and their relentless pursuit.
Day 78 started with a mutch needed trip to the grosery store at Skelleftehamn before we made our way out on the waters again and the day brought unexpected music and human connection. Paddling in good spead overtaking a sailingboat i hear ABBA's "Dancing Queen"
The sailor looked up a little suprised and he aked if everything was alright. We conversed for thirty minutes, drifting at a leisurely three knots before he turned towards land, leaving me to continue my northward journey.
Another 50 kilometers passed beneath my kayak, each stroke a meditation, each mile a story. As night fell, I found a perfect camping spot, the day's adventures etched into my muscles and memory.
Day 79 brought an unexpected blessing when my early pickup in Haparanda was canceled, providing me with more flexibility to reach the border. This fortunate timing coincided perfectly with a meetup with friends Jim and Siri at Fiskecampen.
The reunion was warm and welcoming - literally starting with a heartfelt hug. When I inquired about shower and laundry facilities, the staff generously offered these services free of charge, allowing me to refresh myself after days of kayaking.
The highlight of the evening was undoubtedly the wild game buffet. This wasn't just a meal; it was a culinary revelation. The spread included grilled vegetables, potatoes, elk, reindeer, deer, and salmon – all grilled to perfection. I can confidently say this was the best food I'd eaten not just during the trip but all year. The combination of exceptional cuisine and good friends transformed this stop into a true journey highlight.
After saying goodbye and ensuring my clothes were dry, I resumed my kayaking around 9 PM. A beautiful sunset at 11:00 marked the end of a magical day.
Day 80 dawned with a mix of challenge and adaptation—a true test of resilience. The western winds initially cooperated but soon turned into obstacles as waves grew and shallow boulders emerged beneath me while blinding sunlight made navigation difficult. Seeking refuge on land became necessary as conditions worsened.
My chosen campsite was swarming with mosquitoes and horse flies; I scrambled for the sanctuary of my mosquito net as quickly as possible. Exhaustion pulled me into sleep but was short-lived due to the relentless sun beating down on my shelter like an unwelcome guest.
In desperation for comfort from the heat, I stripped down completely but still found sleep elusive amid oppressive warmth. At 3 PM with the day’s worst heat behind me, I returned to the water for another 20 kilometers before finding camp on a small island just before Luleå—a welcome sight after such trials.
Dinner was simple yet satisfying: root vegetables and eggs prepared over an open flame as sleep began tugging at my consciousness once more.
Day 81 brought another day filled with natural challenges as I woke to find mosquitoes returning once the morning wind had calmed down. To combat this annoyance effectively while still enjoying nature's beauty from my hammock setup—where I had begun using a pee bottle for convenience—I deployed my mosquito net while paddling in my Odin drysuit to fend off horse flies.
Body and mind are feeling a bit heavy, but we agreed that if we made it to Luleå to shop, we would reward ourselves. 😜 Japanese dinner at Kazoku Luleå was super good, with excellent food and service. However, the salad dressing seemed more European than traditional Asian—something I'll have to confirm once I've actually visited Japan. I believe this is a European adaptation that has started to take root in Asian cooking, along with the increasing use of cheese.
One of my favorite things about Asian food is its typically minimalist approach to dressings. 😝 Nevertheless, Kazoku still gets a Shibby-approved rating! 👌
On my way in and out of Luleå, I passed the larger icebraker ship Ymer (Swedish) while I was aboard the smaller Ymir (Norwegian)
Vessel Specifications
Built in 1977 by Wärtsilä Helsinki Shipyard
Length: 104.7 meters (343 ft 6 in)
Beam: 23.8 meters (78 ft 1 in)
Homeport: Luleå, Sweden
Operated by Swedish Maritime Administration
Part of the Atle-class icebreaker series
I didn't feel like covering a full distance today, so I made camp after another 16 km, bringing my total to 33 km for the day. ✌️
Day 82 was spent mostly in my hammock while the lightning clouds kept close, so we stayed on my little island with plenty of fresh food and snacks!
Day 83: Despite feeling physically heavy from fatigue after so many days on this journey, together with insects buzzing around me incessantly—it was still part of what made this adventure unique! The calm waters allowed for steady progress until lightning appeared halfway through today's leg. However, luck smiled upon me again when clouds parted enough for favorable winds to carry me onward toward Frevisören camping, where two trees awaited to hang my hammock for another restful night ahead!
With everything charged up overnight in preparation for tomorrow’s final stretch towards Haparanda’s finish line—36 kilometers left—the day ended perfectly with a Lagunitas IPA enjoyed during sunset that stirred feelings of “heimlengsel” (homesickness) within me.
Day 84 began with the sun warming my hammock, so i awake at 7:30 AM. It was time to rise and embrace the day! I started with a little self-massage, some yoga, and a hearty bowl of oats while I waited for the restaurant to open and retrieve my charging equipment. By 10 AM, I was back on my way, with Haparanda just 38 kilometers ahead of me.
The conditions were perfect: a soft wind and warm sun made for an ideal day on the water. Today, I opted for my Level Six wetsuit instead of the Odin drysuit, enjoying the pleasant weather. The area was beautiful, adorned with vibrant flowers that filled the air with delightful scents as I paddled along.
As I approached my destination, I found my way to the goal of Havspaddlarnasblåband. Interestingly, this spot is also where Robinson Ö-råd was filmed. It felt surreal to be at such a significant location after all the miles traveled.
In true adventurous spirit, let’s do it like Petter Northug and go backwards past the finish line!
On a day like yesterday, it's easy to forget that Haparanda was far from my original goal of Tarifa! Instead of reaching the European South Cape, I ended up far northeast of my starting point. 🤣 This is totally typical for Norwegian adventurers!
Roald Amundsen's Epic Journey
Over 100 years ago, Roald Amundsen originally planned to reach the North Pole. After learning someone had beaten him to it, he pivotally changed his expedition's objective. Together with his legendary team—Helmer Hanssen, Sverre Hassel, Oscar Wisting, and their ship's crew—he successfully became the first modern team to reach the South Pole.By dramatically shifting goals, they paradoxically set an "unbreakable record" of ending up furthest from their initial destination. 👌 Now you understand why these explorers are my ultimate heroes! 🙏
Next i did the short crossing into Finland, just to have done that.
After an incredible journey of 3,000 kilometers, I finally reached my goal at Haparanda! 🥳 The route from Bomansvik to Haparanda included a little detour around Sjælland, adding to the adventure.
see full route here: https://eur-share.explore.garmin.com/SHIBBY
A week ago, I received the expected response from Havspaddlarnasblåband, informing me that they would not accept my journey in their records. But that’s not why I undertook this expedition! It seems that big brother Sweden has strict rules 🤫, while the rebellious little brother Norway prefers to do things their own way 😜.
This has been an epic journey, and even if big brother claims I only completed 99%, I count it as more than 100%! Here are some highlights:
- **No tent!** I brought only my hammock and tarp ✌.
- **No nights inside!** I spent 84 days outdoors - a new record 🙏.
- **No freeze-dried food!** As usual, I enjoyed fresh meals 👌.
- **No canals!** I took the long way around 🌊.
As I reflect on this remarkable experience filled with challenges faced and beauty encountered along the way, I am grateful for every moment that has contributed to my growth and understanding of both nature and myself.
With excitement brewing about returning home soon, I look forward to new adventures awaiting ahead while cherishing every single memory made during this one-of-a-kind expedition! Thank you to everyone who supported me on this journey!
Massive thanks to my expedition supporters:
Special gratitude to my mother, always supporting me behind the scenes. ❤️Heartfelt appreciation to everyone I've met and who has supported my journey—especially Raymond, who'll drive after work to pick me up tomorrow. 🙏
Lots of Love
Joachim the ShibbyTraveler
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