As I continue my epic journey to kayak along Norway’s breathtaking coastline, I’m excited to share updates on my progress. Over the past couple of years, I’ve explored six of Norway's ten longest fjords and made significant headway on visiting the country's cardinal points. However, there are still some thrilling adventures ahead!
And my full rute since 2021 here: https://eur-share.explore.garmin.com/SHIBBY
The Journey So Far
Starting at the Swedish border in early March 2023, I paddled through some of Norway’s most iconic fjords:
- Sognefjorden (226 km): Known as the "King of Fjords," Sognefjord is the Longest and deepest fjord in Norway, plunging to 1,308 meters below sea level. Its towering cliffs and emerald-green waters are shaped by meltwater from nearby glaciers like Jostedalsbreen, Europe’s largest glacier. This fjord is also home to over 30 smaller fjord arms, including the UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord. The landscape here is a testament to the immense power of glaciers during the Ice Age.
Hardangerfjord (180 km): Known as the "fruit orchard of Norway," Hardangerfjord is renowned for its lush fruit farms and stunning waterfalls. This geological marvel stretches 180 kilometers from the Atlantic Ocean into the mountainous interior of Norway. At its mouth, the fjord features shallow inlets with depths ranging from 100 to 200 meters, but it becomes significantly deeper further inland, reaching depths of up to 800 meters.
During my Journey, I took a detour into Botnen, a small fjord arm where I camped and explored the serene surroundings. I walked up to a farm that was once featured in the NRK series "Der ingen skulle tru at nokon kunne bu" (Where You Wouldn't Believe Anyone Could Live). The series highlighted the remarkable story of a single resident who lived there, showcasing the challenges and beauty of life in such a remote location. Today, the farm stands as a testament to the past, a reminder of the resilience of those who once called this breathtakingly beautiful but isolated place home.
Trondheimsfjorden (130 km): Unlike many other fjords, Trondheimsfjorden offers a unique blend of urban and natural beauty, thanks to its proximity to the historic city of Trondheim. This fjord stretches 130 kilometers from Ørland in the west to Steinkjer in the north, providing a picturesque backdrop to the vibrant city. While it is shallower compared to other fjords, reaching depths of up to 617 meters.
Trondheimsfjorden is not only a natural wonder but also a gateway to Trondheim, a city steeped in history. Founded in 997 by Viking King Olav Tryggvason, Trondheim was once the capital of Norway and a significant center for Christianity. It was known as Nidaros during the medieval period and served as a major pilgrimage site due to its association with Saint Olaf The city's rich past is evident in landmarks like Nidaros Cathedral, which remains a testament to its historical importance as a seat of royal power and religious authority.
Nordfjord (110 km): This rugged fjord is renowned for its dramatic landscapes and historical significance. At its innermost point lies the Briksdalsbreen glacier, which feeds into the fjord’s emerald waters. However, Nordfjord is also marked by a tragic history of catastrophic tsunamis caused by rockslides. One of the most devastating events occurred in 1936, known as the Loen disaster. On September 13, 1936, a massive rockslide from Ramnefjellet triggered a tsunami with waves reaching over 74 meters in height. This disaster destroyed villages like Bødal and Nesdal, claiming 74 lives and leaving a lasting impact on the region.
Beyond its natural beauty and tragic history, Nordfjord is also steeped in Viking heritage. Visitors can explore this rich cultural past at Sagastad, a knowledge center located in Nordfjordeid. Sagastad is home to the Myklebust ship, the largest Viking ship ever found in Norway, discovered in a burial mound in 1874. The ship, estimated to be around 30 meters long, is a testament to the advanced shipbuilding skills of the Vikings and serves as a symbol of their maritime prowess. The center offers modern exhibitions and activities that delve into the mystical rituals and great journeys of the Viking Age.
Boknafjorden (96 km) After navigating through the rough waters along Jæren, it was a welcome relief to enter the serene Boknafjorden. Located in southern Norway, this 96-kilometer fjord is characterized by its calm waters, dramatic cliffs, and picturesque islands. It serves as a gateway to the south, offering a tranquil passage and a haven for marine life.
Boknafjorden is dotted with charming fishing villages, each with its own unique charm and history. The calm waters make it ideal for kayaking or boat tours, allowing visitors to appreciate the dramatic landscapes and diverse wildlife. This beautiful region offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and tranquility, making it a must-visit destination in southern Norway.
- Storfjorden (86 km): Storfjorden, stretching 86 kilometers, leads into the breathtaking Geirangerfjord—one of Norway’s most famous fjords. This region is characterized by steep cliffs and cascading waterfalls, creating a dramatic landscape that has captivated visitors for centuries. Geirangerfjord itself is home to abandoned farms perched on impossibly steep hillsides, remnants of a time when people lived off the land here despite the harsh conditions.
As I continued my journey, I made a detour into Tafjord, where I was warmly greeted by Jo, a Canadian adventurer working for Uteguiden. She kindly handed me my new paddle from Aquabound, which I was eager to test on the waters of Tafjord. Jo joined me on this leg of my journey, and as we paddled through the magical fjord, I shared with her the tale of the Tafjord tsunami.
In 1934, a massive rockslide occurred in Tafjorden, triggering a devastating tsunami with waves reaching up to 64 meters high. This catastrophic event claimed the lives of 40 people and left a lasting impact on the region. As we glided across the calm waters, it was hard to imagine the destructive power that once ravaged this very place. Sharing this story with Jo added a poignant layer to our experience, highlighting the resilience of the people who live and work in this beautiful yet unforgiving environment.
The tranquility of Tafjord today belies the powerful forces that shape Norway's fjord landscapes. Exploring these waters with Jo was not only a chance to enjoy the natural beauty of the region but also an opportunity to reflect on its history and the stories that make it so compelling.
Additionally, I have yet to explore Lyngenfjord, Porsangerfjord, and Varangerfjord, which remain on my list for this year!
Reaching the Outer Limits
Beyond the fjords, I’ve visited some of Norway’s most remote cardinal points:
- Southernmost island: Completed my visit to Pysen Island, marking the southernmost tip of Norway's islands.
- Westernmost island: Successfully reached Holmebåen by Utvær Lighthouse, the westernmost point of Norway's islands. Utvær is highly
Utvær, with its iconic lighthouse, holds significant historical importance, particularly during the Viking Age. It is said that Utvær was a known meeting point for Viking warriors before they set sail for raids in England. The strategic location of these islands made them an ideal gathering place for assembling forces and preparing for expeditions across the North Sea.
One of the fascinating aspects of Utvær's Viking history is the presence of marks on the stones, believed to have been made by Viking warriors sharpening their axes and swords before departing on raids. These marks, found on the east side of the bay near Likberget, serve as a tangible reminder of the Vikings' military preparations and their readiness for battle. The use of whetstones for sharpening weapons was a common practice among Viking warriors, as these stones were essential for maintaining the sharpness of their blades
I still have the northernmost and easternmost points to conquer. This summer, I’m excited to head to Kinnarodden (mainland's northernmost point) and Knivskjellodden (island's northernmost point), as well as Kibergsneset (mainland's easternmost point) and Hornøya (island's easternmost point).
Challenges and Triumphs
The journey has presented its share of challenges. Initially, the cold at the start was invigorating, and reaching the outer points was exhilarating. However, last summer brought unexpected setbacks—a tooth infection and broken ribs tested my resilience. Despite these obstacles, exploring these fjords has been fantastic—offering both breathtaking scenery and challenging conditions.
One of the most unforgettable experiences was an encounter with orcas while kayaking from Veiholmen to Hidra during sunset. This magical moment stands out as the highlight of my journey so far.
Waiting for the Right Moment
Initially, I had hoped to start this next leg of my journey sooner, but due to unforeseen circumstances—many of my coworkers falling ill—I decided to wait a little longer. I want to ensure that everything is in order before embarking on this adventure. As soon as possible, I will set off to complete the remaining parts of my journey.
Looking Ahead
As I prepare for the next leg of my adventure, I’m eager to explore Lyngenfjord’s beauty, Porsangerfjord’s wildlife-rich waters, and Varangerfjord’s Arctic landscapes before reaching the Russian border. My trusty kayak, Ymir, and I are ready for whatever lies ahead!
A Commitment to Nature
Throughout my travels, I’ve remained committed to leaving every campsite cleaner than I found it by picking up trash along the way. If you’re one of those magical people who also clean nature as you go, I hope our paths cross someday! The best of Norway mashup video under.
Living the Outdoor Life
Since starting my journey on March 1st at the Swedish border, I’ve been living outdoors, embracing the freedom and challenges that come with it. During warmer months, I previously slept in my hammock from Ticket to the Moon, which has been a reliable companion on my kayaking adventures. However, this year I've decided to leave my hammock behind as I venture further north, where large trees become scarce. Instead, I've opted for the Tentipi Onix 2P tipi, which will provide me with a more versatile and reliable shelter in areas with fewer trees.
In winter, I retreat to my tipi from Tentipi in Fetsund, where I work and prepare for the next leg of my journey. As of today, March 12th, 2025, I have spent 378 days living outdoors, immersed in nature and its rhythms. This lifestyle has allowed me to connect deeply with the natural world and appreciate the simple joys of outdoors.
The Tentipi Olivin 2P tipi offers the perfect blend of space, durability, and adaptability for my changing environment. Its design allows for excellent ventilation and the ability to use a stove, making it ideal for colder climates. I'm excited to see how this new setup enhances my outdoor experience as I continue my journey.
Join Me on This Adventure
Follow my journey on Instagram and Facebook through photos, videos, and stories as I continue kayaking the Norwegian coast. For sponsorships or collaborations, feel free to reach out at joachimlarssen@gmail.com.
Here’s to more adventures with Ymir as we explore the wild beauty of Norway together!
Lots of love,
Joachim Larssen
The ShibbyTraveler
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